Thursday evening marked the first staff tasting since Kermit’s departure to France. The tasting covered whites, reds, and rosés from the Loire, the southern Rhône, Provence, and Corsica. As good students of the Lynchianesque tasting philosophy, we started in the north with the Loire and finished in the south with Corsica. Today I’ll focus on the highlights from one of our great Loire producers, Catherine and Pierre Breton.

We recently received a variety of the Breton releases, more than I’m going to list and describe here. We started with their sparkling Vouvray, the NV Vouvray Petillant Brut “La Dilettante” ($19.95). The extremes of sparkling wine we carry range from the ultra-refined, fully sparkling wines of Champagne, to Elvio Tintero’s frizzante Moscato d’Asti. In terms of sparkle, the Breton’s Vouvray is about half way between the two—what the French call pétillant. The appeal of this wine is in the character of that sparkle. There is a frothiness to it that is ethereal, enabling the wine to float weightlessly on your palate. The bubbles are rustic, as if each bottle might have a different amount of sparkle. Underlying the sparkle is the classic dark mineral character the Breton’s so carefully coax out of their Vouvray.

The “still” counterpart to the pétillant, the 2009 Vouvray Sec “La Dilettante” ($22.00), followed naturally. Jumping out of the glass was the aroma of fresh oyster shells and just a touch of sea salt. The 2009 is luscious, with a prominent floral aroma, and supported by nervy acidity.

The Breton’s refer to the next two wines as “Vins Nature”, described on their website as “Young, crisp wines with fruit, for a spontaneous moment of relaxation.” Catherine and Pierre either use vineyard names or cuvée names based on the style or character of the wine. The 2009 Bourgueil “Avis de Vin Fort” ($22.00) fits into the latter category and Catherine recounted the story behind the name the last time she visited our shop. “Avis de vin fort” is a sailing expression, playing off the phrase “avis de vent fort.” When an “avis de vent fort” (high winds warning) was issued, the sailors would issue their own warning—“avis de vin fort” or “drink strong wine,” so as to be best prepared for the rigors of sailing on a stormy sea. The “Avis de Vin Fort” itself is not a “strong” wine—it comes in at a mere 12% alcohol. It’s a fun phrase with cultural significance that is very similar to “three sheets to the wind” in English. Thankfully, to drink this wine, you do not need to be preparing to do anything heroic; you simply should be relaxed and ready to have a meal. The “Avis de Vin Fort” is meant to be drunk now and has enough tannin to make it a great food wine.

The top Breton “Vin Nature” is the 2008 Bourgueil “Nuits d’Ivresse” ($32.00). This wine is one of our few wines that sees no sulfur at anytime during vinification or bottling. Just a tad of sulfur at bottling helps stabilize wine before the arduous trip across the Atlantic, but every once in a while, a winemaker will have a zero-sulfur vision and we accommodate that. The “Nuits d’Ivresse,” or “Drunken Nights,” deserves its status as one of the Breton’s top cuvées as it possesses an elegance and complexity their more “frivolous” wines don’t. This wine bursts with fresh fruit character and has just a brush of tannin. Our man in France, Dixon Brooke, recommends drinking this now, and if you desire, aging it in an ice-cold cellar. The sentiment of aging the “Nuits d’Ivresse” was confirmed by another colleague who recently had a stunning 2002—it was worth the wait.

Catherine Breton during the 2008 harvest

In recent memory we have imported just one producer from Vouvray, the wines of Didier and Catherine Champalou. Earlier this year, we began importing a second Vouvray from another Loire Valley husband and wife winemaking team, Pierre and Catherine Breton. The 2008 Vouvray Secs from these two producers recently arrived and I was excited to taste them and delve further into what 2008 Loire whites have to offer.

We started with the Breton’s 2008 Vouvray Sec “La Dilettante” ($17.95). The 2008 is our second vintage importing the Breton’s foray into white wine production (they also make a NV Vouvray Pétillant ($19.95). The Breton’s built their reputation on making pure Cabernet Francs from Bourgueil and Chinon using Biodynamic viticulture and vinification. There was no need for a trial period with their white wines, they were stunning from the beginning. The 2008 maintained the quality of the 2007 vintage perfectly while offering its own unique characteristics. There is an alluring quality to the 2008. I know I like a wine when after first tasting, I can’t wait to see how it strikes me the next time I open a bottle. Lime citrus and lychee fruit lend a thirst-quenching quality now, but I sense more will develop down the line. What will the wine offer in a month or a year from now?

The Vouvray Sec from the Champalous is a rock solid Kermit Lynch stand-by. We’ve been importing their Sec, Demi-Sec, Pétillant, and Moelleux since the 1980s. Our man in France, Dixon Brooke, says the Vouvray Sec is a staff favorite. That is a mild understatement being that it has been a favorite here for two decades. The 2008 Vouvray Sec ($18.95) is a vivid and delicate rendition of Vouvray. The nose is perfumed, exuding a feminine and floral freshness. The Champalous often refer to this dry wine as being “sec tendre” or a “tender dryness,” meaning they leave just a wisp of sweetness. This near illusion of sugar is engaging, it draws me in, plying me to take another sip to figure out what’s going on.

In our recent email blast we featured some new arrivals that we are excited about. Here are a few more, all hailing from the 2008 vintage.

2008 Côtes du Rhône “La Sagesse” • Domaine Gramenon

If the recent arrivals from Domaine Gramenon are any indication, then 2008 has produced excellent wines in the Rhône. Gramenon likes to bottle early to retain as much fruit character as possible and this shows in the ’08 La Sagesse: young, bright fruit with an elegant spice finish. The spice is not your typical peppery Rhône spice but instead it is reminiscent of cinnamon and nutmeg. Try it and let us know if this characteristic comes across to you too.

$32.00 per bottle    $345.60 per case

2008 Coteaux du Loir Blanc • Pascal Janvier *

Janvier hails from the northern central Loire, up north of Vouvray along a little tributary of the Loire River called the Loir River.  Subtle, huh?  The wines are not subtle, however.  He works vines in two appellations, Coteaux du Loir and Jasnières; Chenin Blanc is the grape for the white wines, Pineau d’Aunis for the reds.  The 2008 vintage is outstanding for Loire Valley whites, and this one makes quite an introduction.  It brags with explosive, exotic aromas of nutmeg and guava, a big, ripe, smoky palate, and searing silex minerality to finish it all off.  Not for the faint of heart.

$16.00 per bottle    $172.80 per case

2008 Coteaux du Loir Rouge • Pascal Janvier

During the summer I drink a lot of light, refreshing whites and rosés, but I’m always on the look out for a red that falls into this same category. The only red we import from Janvier is exactly my style of summer red. Slightly pale in the glass, fresh pepper on the nose, a hint of cherry, vibrant acidity, and an edge of dusty texture; try this instead of a rosé as an pre-dinner apéritif. I recommend putting it in the fridge for about 20 minutes before serving…a small chill goes a long way towards quaffability.

$17.00 per bottle    $183.60 per case

2008 Jasnières • Pascal Janvier

How can some people passionately argue that terroir dosen’t exist? That is the question I asked myself while tasting Janvier’s ’08 Jasnières. The intensity of this wine is so striking it seems to be spring-loaded with mineral, melon, and citrus fruit. However, the Jasnières’ most remarkable aspect is despite its concentrated character, the wine maintains an elegance and finesse through the finish. This might seem like a lot of complexity for an $18 bottle of wine but maybe we should  expect that.

$18.00 per bottle    $194.40 per case

* Written by Dixon Brooke.

The July newsletter is now available! Download the PDF by clicking here.

Highlights from this month’s newsletter…

2007 Bandol, Domaine Tempier Pre-Arrival

Yes, I  just arrived at my place near Domaine Tempier and immediately visited to re-taste their great 2007s now that they are in bottle. How convenient!

It is a great vintage for Tempier in the sense that the reds have quite a monumental quality, grand wines brimming with flavor, and they will obviously age almost forever. To compare them to something, trying to give you an idea of the vintage style, I’d look to really stunning Bordeaux vintages like 1945 or 1947. I mean, there is one hell of a lot of wine in these wines.

La Migoua and Tourtine show their personalities vividly in 2007. Winemaker Daniel Ravier concurs: “Definitive Migoua, definitive Tourtine.”

La Migoua is fat and sweet and juicy. The nose combines ripe black cherry with dried thyme and other local herbs. Don’t let my use of the word sweet throw you. I couldn’t believe that Migoua 2007 is really dry, but Ravier showed me the analysis. When I once had the luck to taste a 1947 Cheval Blanc, I had the same impression.

Tourtine is the aristocrat—perfectly formed, lean, muscular—and more closed at the beginning of its life than Migoua. The infinite depth is obvious. It shows more dried herbs, a dash of black pepper, and Ravier said it also reminds him of the smell of a good steak on the grill.

Cabassaou is close to being too much. I mean it is unbelievably concentrated and powerful. Pure old-vines Mourvèdre. Great vintage. Extreme Mourvèdre! At this stage of its life—hmm, let’s just say I won’t touch my stash of bottles for a number of years.

2007 Bandol “Classique” $396.00 per case of twelve

2007 Bandol “La Migoua” $298.50 per six bottles

2007 Bandol “La Tourtine” $298.50 per six bottles

2007 Bandol “Cabassaou” $216.75 per three bottles

Inquire about availability in tenths, magnums, and jeroboams.

Pre-arrival terms: Half-payment due with order; balance due upon arrival.

New Arrivals

Italy and the Loire Valley
by Dixon Brooke

2008 BARDOLINO “CHIARETTO”
CORTE GARDONI

The Chiaretto strikes a cheerful chord in me every time I uncork one: it has a great balance, starting with the bass notes of the Bardolino red varietals (Corvina, Rondinella) and a treble in the form of just the right amount of freshness and minerality. This impeccable rosé makes a year-round spirit brightener. And you don’t need to be lakeside in the Veneto to enjoy the Piccolis’ Chiaretto, because it is at home any old place, any old time.

$12.95 per bottle $139.86 per case

2008 BARDOLINO ROSSO “LE FONTANE”
CORTE GARDONI

The triumvirate of Corte Gardoni wines isn’t complete without their young Bardolino Rosso. Le Fontane is vinified for early drinking pleasure, emphasizing the bright, exuberant fruit for which the appellation is known. Le Fontane is all about carefree quaffing, and it is hard to beat with a slight chill during the summer months. Keep it around as your Old Reliable.

$12.95 per bottle $139.86 per case

2007 ROSSO TOSCANO
“MONTELECCIO” • SESTI

The must-be-seen-to-be-believed property of the Sestis is in the Brunello di Montalcino zone on a hilltop graced by a 12th-century castle and an 8th-century chapel. Cypress trees all over the place. Just another day in the Tuscan hills . . . Monteleccio is the Sestis’ early-drinking pure Sangiovese, raised in big oak botti for twelve months. The 2007 is a grand success, intense and bursting with flavor. This is classic, classy Sangiovese, irresistible today, so dive right in!

$18.00 per bottle $194.40 per case

2001 BARBERA DEL MONFERRATO SUPERIORE “VALPANE” • CANTINE VALPANE

In my opinion, Pietro Arditi’s winery in the Monferrato region of northern Piedmont is one of our most exciting discoveries of the past several years. This is Pietro’s flagship Barbera, for which he has created a lengthy five-year élevage including time in cement, demi-muid, and barrique. The resulting wine is eventually blended with 10% Freisa, another indigenous Piedmontese varietal, for a dose of fresh, bright fruit. The 2001 is truly a gem and is in perfect harmony right now. A tinge of smoky meatiness hints at its age, but the dominant theme is fresh, vibrant Barbera fruit and lots of it. Bravo, Pietro! This is quite a creation, and a superb vintage.

$19.95 per bottle $215.46 per case

2008 CHARDONNAY • ÉRIC CHEVALIER

An anomaly in the region, Éric’s Chardonnay is planted in sandstone, silex, and quartz next to one of his Muscadet vineyards, and it doesn’t much resemble Chardonnay from anywhere else. It is crisp, clean, flinty, and easy to down. Some folks buy cases at a time.

$12.95 per bottle $139.86 per case

2008 FIÉ GRIS • ÉRIC CHEVALIER

Fié Gris is a local name for Sauvignon Gris, a grey- to rosé-hued relative of the Sauvignon Blanc grape. Mostly abandoned in the Loire Valley and Bordeaux, where it was formerly planted with some regularity, the grape may be in the early stages of a comeback. Éric’s version is solid proof that there is merit to the grape as a mono-cépage—it gives a unique, highly aromatic wine loaded with spicy and even tropical nuances. André Chatenoud of the Château de Bellevue in Lussac-Saint-Emilion has also planted some in order to make a white Bordeaux, while Éric is lucky enough to have a parcel of older vines to work with.

$22.50 per bottle $243.00 per case

The time around July 4th is when French wine sales take a little hit. Domestic wineries jump on the “buy American” bandwagon and people head to their local shops that feature their favorite homegrown wines. This makes sense, right? July 4th = Zinfandel? Why on earth would you buy a bottle of French wine to go with an Independence Day celebration?

I’d argue that the first bottle you look for should be from France! I believe it was the involvement of the French Navy in the Revolutionary War that played a major factor in the U.S. sealing the deal. Also, let us not forget that it was the French who gave us the Statue of Liberty. So, clearly, we should raise a glass to the French this weekend! Three great picnic wines emerged from our last staff tasting that would be the ideal accompaniment for an Independence Day gathering.

2007 Coteaux du Languedoc “Tradition” • St. Martin de la Garrigue ($14.95)

The wines of St. Martin de la Garrigue are consistent values. “Tradition” is a blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan, possessing a wild, rustic edge, but without any gnarly tannins. Dark spice, black fruit and a hit of stoniness reminiscent of a Côtes du Rhône make this wine a perfect pairing for summer barbeque fare. Burgers, ribs, or Portobello mushrooms on the grill – this is the wine to uncork.

2008 Sauvignon Blanc “Unique” • Domaine du Salvard ($13.95)

“Unique” hails from the village of Cheverny, where to take the village name the bottling must have a small dose of Chardonnay. The lack of Chardonnay in “Unique” allows Salvard to name his “Sauvignon Blanc” without breaking any rules. Clearly this is convenient for the consumer and the wine lives up to Loire Sauvignon Blanc standards. Quaffable, sprightly, and bright, this wine jumps around your tongue like a fiddler’s bow on strings.

2008 Bandol Rosé • Domaine de la Tour du Bon ($26)

Tour du Bon has nailed it with their ’08 Rosé – pure, classic Bandol. Fresh light peach notes and funky herbs de provence aromas coat your mouth, imploring you to take another gulp. This wine might transport you to the Côte d’Azur, but, even better, you could visit their property near Bandol where they have a quaint Provençal farmhouse available as a vacation rental.

Every once in a while during tastings an unintended theme emerges that ties a number of wines together. A theme that goes beyond wines coming from the same region or having similar blends but something that connects seemingly unrelated wines in a way that pre-tasting, one probably would not have put together. Last night’s emergent link between the wines was “refreshment,” and how apt it was that right at the beginning of summer, a large shipment of refreshing, thirst quenching wines would arrive.

More often than not we start our tastings with rosé and then move on to the whites. The lone rosé of our latest shipment of wines was the 2008 Chinon Rosé from Charles Joguet ($17.95). We’ve imported this rosé since the ’70s, back when it was $3.95 a bottle and Kermit originally described it as “an uncommon treat.” We hope that after bringing the wine in for three decades this rosé has become a little more common. The ‘08 Chinon Rosé is delicate, with a hint of peppery spice and subtle cranberry and rhubarb fruit. Outside of the innate refreshment of this wine, my favorite part is the label. The domaine doesn’t seem to have changed their rosé label…ever (or any of their other labels for that matter).

We stayed in the Loire and moved west to the land of oyster wines: Muscadet. We are now in our third vintage with Eric Chevalier who makes excellent crisp Loire whites that we can’t seem to keep on the floor. Chevalier’s wines won over the staff immediately when we first started importing them and the 2008s have upheld this excellent standard. We started with his 2008 Muscadet “Côtes de Grand Lieu” ($14). It is razor sharp, with intense minerality and a striking oyster shell earthiness. Do not miss this bottle. We followed the Muscadet with Chevalier’s clean and bright 2008 Chardonnay ($12.95). This is a perfect summer wine for sipping or to pair with light seafood fare. Also, for ease of identifying the importer, the Chardonnay carries our new “Imported by Kermit Lynch” front label, something you’ll start seeing more of in the future.

From the Atlantic coast, we moved clear across the country to the Savoie in the French Alps. The 2008 Vin de Savoie “Les Abymes” from A. & M. Quenard ($16) is a staff favorite that we wish we could keep on the floor year round. 11% alcohol, a hint of frizzante, and fresh like spring water, this wine defines the word “quaffer.” Here’s what Kermit had to say when he first started importing this wine in 2002:

“I find that in French wine circles I have a reputation as an importer capable of finding a market for little-known appellations. You should see some of the wild samples I receive for consideration. But every so often I find a treasure like this Abymes, and usually the price makes it more attractive.”

We finished the tasting with a couple Cabernet Francs from the Loire. 2007 Loire Cab Franc is spectacular: pure, clean bright fruit with beautiful balance and finesse. The first of the reds was the 2007 Chinon “Cuvée Terroir” from Charles Joguet ($17.95). Elegant, soft and textured fruit mark Joguet’s “Cuvée Terroir.” This is an excellent wine to drink now. It is very accessible and would pair well with any style of chicken.

The 2007 Bourgueil “Vieilles Vignes” from Domaine de la Chanteleuserie ($16) is one of a number of wines that has a value price but is absolutely worth putting in your cellar for 5 to 10 years. This wine is young with firm tannin, a hint of smoky cedar essence and deep fruit. Don’t miss out on the amazing pleasure this wine will give you with a few years of age.

Cabernet Franc is also great with just a small chill on it. If you get a chance to put a bottle in the fridge for 20 – 30 minutes, that chill will go a long way in adding a level of refreshment to these hearty wines. It’ll be just like drinking it directly out of an underground cellar in France!

Preparing for the tasting.

Next Tuesday, our friends at Terroir in San Francisco are having a tasting featuring wines from the Loire Valley with special guest, Catherine Breton of Domaine Catherine et Pierre Breton. The event requires an RSVP so please give the guys at Terroir a call at 415.558.9946 if you’d like to attend. Also, check out Eric Asimov’s posting on Terroir from earlier in the week here. Details on the event are below.

Tasting with Catherine Breton
Wines from the Loire Valley
Terroir Natural Wine Merchant & Bar
Tuesday, May 19 • 5:30pm
1116 Folsom St.
San Francisco, CA 94103
(between 7th St. & Langton St.)
RSVP: (415) 558-9946, info@terroirsf.com