In early August, I paid a visit to vigneron Laurent Martelet of Domaine Comtesse Bernard de Cherisey in his enchanting corner of Burgundy, the Hameau de Blagny. My visit was well-timed because in the July newsletter, Kermit wrote about Laurent’s premier crus and put them on pre-arrival at an excellent discount.  We all look forward to the arrival of these wines each year. They represent the best of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, and during my visit, I discovered why.

Laurent taught Enology and Viticulture in Dijon before taking over the reigns at de Cherisey. To me this seems odd, because the only rule he follows when making wine is that rules don’t exist (textbooks usually don’t say that sort of thing).  Each vintage is different, so following rules, recipes, and directions is worthless. What worked last year may not work again.

For many people, the concept of terroir seems mystical and sometimes contrived. However, in the mind of a Burgundian vigneron, terroir is very real and concrete. Laurent’s vines surround his cellar, and the road to reach the cave marks the border of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet—two of the best white Burgundy terroirs. Scattered amongst the vines are hundreds of small flat stones, the same stones that built the walls and houses in his area of Burgundy. These stones are perfectly flat on both sides, making them ideal for laying on top of each other.

While walking from vineyard to vineyard, we used a dirt road that cut into the hillside. Laurent was eager to point out the cross-section of the hill that the cut in the road afforded us. Very clearly, you could see evenly stacked, neatly laid stones—the same stones from the vineyards surrounding the cellar. I told him that it looked like a wall had been built there, and over many years, become covered by the eroding hillside. He affirmed that though it does look like that, what we were looking at was the raw earth, located ten feet below the surface of his vineyards. These perfectly laid stones had naturally settled into place over thousands of years, creating the ideal, unfertile soil for making not only some of the world’s greatest Chardonnays, but for some of the world’s greatest wines. Laurent said the roots of his vines must find their way through the small crevasses between these tightly packed stones to reach any source of nutrient or water. Those are some hardworking vines! It is not often that one gets to see the cross-section of earth that gives a wine its character.

We followed the vineyard tour with a tasting of a number of his 2008 and 2007 vintages. Laurent recommends holding these wines for at least 6 years after the vintage before drinking them. The tasting finished with a 2001 Puligny-Montrachet “Chalumeaux.” The nine years of age were barely detectable and the color was identical to the ‘07s and ‘08s. Refined, bright acidity supported earthy notes of truffle—a stunning wine.

As I drove back down the road to Meursault, the ’01 was still coating my mouth, almost percolating… Fifteen minutes later, it continued to unveil its wonders.

Laurent, giving us a good look at the size and shape of the stones in his vineyards

The rows between each vine are littered with flat stones of many sizes

Layers of stones in the subsoil of Laurent’s vineyards

Vacation time can means different things for employees of KLWM. So far this year we’ve headed to Hawaii, Vermont, Zion National Park, and a few have taken the relaxing “stay-cation,” choosing just to stay home. I’ll be following in the footsteps of many salespeople who decide to spend their precious vacation time traveling to France, visiting the properties of the vigneron’s whose wines we import.

Having been fortunate enough to study in France during college, this pilgrimage will be a new discovery of a country and culture I’ve already learned to love. What an opportunity.

Here’s a few producers I’ll be visiting and why I’m excited to see their properties.

Domaine Les Pallières

I’m going to ask that the tour at Kermit and the Brunier’s domaine will include a viewing of the “Terrasse du Diable” vineyard. This parcel is located high above the winery and beneath the imposing Dentelles de Montmirail. It is responsible for the wild, brambly, and chewy bottling of the same name. The 2007 Gigondas “Terrasse du Diable” is available for the moment at $34 a bottle. It is one of 2007’s greatest wines. The vineyards of Pallières are pictured to the right.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe

What self-respecting Kermit Lynch employee wouldn’t want to see the famous “La Crau” vineyard? The stones! The massive galets covering the vineyard floor of this Châteauneuf-du-Pape are legendary among fans of Vieux Télégraphe, and that is something I’ve got to see with my own eyes.

The La Crau vineyard at Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe

Domaine Comtesse Bernard de Cherisey

De Cherisey produces classic Chardonnay, described by my colleague Michael Butler as “wine from a different time.” White Burgundy like this doesn’t come around very often unless you purchase from the likes of Coche-Dury and Antoine Jobard. Unlike Coche, de Cherisey is regularly available for purchase and at a fraction of the price.
Vigneron, Laurent Martelet, is a family man who took over his mother-in-law’s vines in the late ‘90s and has focused his craft on making precise, mineral-driven wines. He’s even writing a book on his winemaking philosophy. Start purchasing these wines now. Demand is quickly growing, but the supply isn’t. The 2008s are currently on pre-arrival.

De Cherisey’s Meursault “La Genelotte” 1er cru vineyard

Pierre Guillemot

Kermit has imported the red and white Burgundies of Pierre Guillemot since the 1970s. They aretightly coiled, terroir-driven masterpieces that never break the bank (premier crus for $35!?!). Entering the Guillemot cellar is like taking a step back in time, not just because of the old vintages that are often opened during tastings, but because nothing has changed in decades. The wines and family are true to their roots, old-school Burgundian. I can’t wait to get underground with them.

I’ll be taking a hiatus from the blogging during my two weeks in France but I’ll be updating the KLWM Facebook and Twitter accounts regularly. I hope to have some interesting tidbits for you when I return.

Thursday’s staff tasting featured a wide range of regions and styles. Because of this diversity we didn’t hold to our usual north to south tasting order but instead jumped around. We started in the Languedoc with some new arrivals from Saint Martin de la Garrigue.

Here’s a brief history of Saint Martin as told by Kermit back in 2002.

In the early 1990s Umberto Guida, a man of wealth and taste, acquired Saint Martin and restored it as well as I have seen an old property restored. Happily for us winos, he hired Jean-Claude Zabalia, a real talent, to make Saint Martin’s wine. Whatever he needs in order to make great wine, the boss pays for.

This story might sound similar to how wineries are started here in California. The difference is the benefactors here seem to want to produce nothing but expensive heavyweights. Saint Martin’s wines top out at $19.95 a bottle. The value is off the charts. We tasted two new arrivals the other night from Saint Martin and, not surprisingly, we were impressed.

Saint Martin’s 2008 Coteaux du Languedoc Blanc ($16.95) is a beautiful example of a refreshing southern French white. The wine is primarily comprised of Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, and Roussanne. These white grape varieties lend a floral aroma with peach and strawberry essence on the palate. The finish is refreshing, with a hint of something reminiscent of champagne – no, not bubbles. This is the kind of wine I like to sip on when I get home from work.

I’ll veer away from the order in which we tasted to discuss another new arrival from Saint Martin, the 2007 Vin de Pays “Cuvée Reservée” Rouge ($13.95). The argument over the existence of terroir (well, for some people it’s an argument) ends when wine is tasted. There are some wines in which there is no terroir, no sense of terrestrial provenance, and the Réservée is not one of those wines. The Reservée is a Cabernet/Merlot blend. These are atypical grape varieties for a Languedoc red but the character of this wine, with its spice, black pepper and earthy dark fruit are 100% Languedoc.

We then moved on to a trio of spectacular 2007 Burgundies. The 2007 Chablis “Fourchaume” 1er Cru ($30) from Olivier Savary just arrived. I can’t say enough good things about 2007 Chablis. I plan on drinking a lot of it now and putting away quite a few bottles as well. The “Fourchaume” is sharp, bright, filled with minerality, and firmly structured. It’s young to the point that it almost hurts to drink it now. Give this five years in the cellar and it will develop beautifully.

Two wines from Bruno Colin followed Savary’s Chablis. Bruno’s 2007 Bourgogne Blanc ($24) was vibrant and fresh, with just a breath of wood, supported by a layer of mineral. Simply put, this is an excellent Bourgogne blanc. I like to encourage people to check out the Bourgogne blancs or rouges of producers to see if they like the style before purchasing premier or grand crus. The premier crus from Bruno Colin are currently on pre-arrival and because the prices are so phenomenal I would not wait to taste this Bourgogne Blanc. I would call us to put a case of the Blanc on hold and then put down a large order of his pre-arrival wines. The prices are too good to pass up for this spectacular vintage (upwards of 45% less than 2006 pre-arrival).

Bruno’s 2007 Bourgogne Rouge ($19.95) was up next. This is a lot of Burgundy for 19.95 and I don’t mean that it’s a “big” wine. This bottle is packed with classic Burgundian character. There’s earth, juniper, spice, and beautiful Pinot Noir fruit. If asked how good the 2007 reds turned out, I would point to this wine as a prime example of the quality of the vintage.

We then crisscrossed the country to finish in the southwest and Bordeaux. Irouléguy is one of the more obscure regions we import. Located in the Basque region of France, we import two Irouléguy domaines, Extegaraya and Arretxea. It took me about a year of practice before being able to confidently say those words (it would be well beyond my capabilities to come up with a phonetic spelling). We tasted the 2007 Irouléguy ($25) from Arretxea. The grape is Tannat, producing a wild wine – dark, chewy, meaty – but in an extreme kind of way. Drink it with any hunk of meat you can throw on the bbq.

The final bottle of the night was the superb 2006 Lussac St. Emilion from Château de Bellevue ($24). Our man in France, Dixon Brooke, described the wines of Bellevue best: “Sleek, sexy, spicy, complex, fresh, and well balanced, that’s what you will find.” This is a young, but approachable right bank Bordeaux. We don’t import the classified growths of Bordeaux, but what we do bring in has classic character and excellent prices.

The June newsletter is now available! Download the PDF by clicking here.

Highlights from this month’s newsletter…

Pre-Arrival Red Burgundy
by Dixon Brooke

I think the time is ripe to revisit the annals of KLWM wine lore for our own version of the vintage chart. The truth is that Kermit did publish one, but it was only a blank sheet of paper. Cheeky, yes, but it illustrated a point that we drive home to our clients every day. Vintage variation, especially in a country that doesn’t allow irrigation, is what gives us an amazing diversity of wines in each region of France. Each vintage, no matter how little or how much it is lauded, has its strengths and weaknesses. … All this to say, if you buy our Burgundies, buy them every year, get to know the nuances, and you will always be rewarded. The 2007s are about Burgundy’s fabled finesse, the expression of its terroir, and the magnificent Pinot Noir flavors.

On pre-arrival this month:
2007 Domaine Jean-Yves Bizot • Vosne-Romanée
2007 Domaine François Bretheau • Chambolle-Musigny
2007 Domaine Robert Chevillon • Nuits-Saint-Georges
2007 Domaine Pierre Guillemot • Savigny-Les-Beaune

Riesling Sampler

The first KLWM varietal Sampler! When we recently received some very stylish Rieslings, it occurred to me to attract attention with a Sampler. Most of my readers need no introduction to Alsatian Rieslings, but to those of you new to French wines and used to labels that feature the grape variety, you will learn here (and enjoy learning) what France’s pure Rieslings are like.

To those already initiated, here’s a chance to taste six new beauties from top-flight winemakers … at a 25% discount.

2007 Riesling “Tradition” • Kuentz-Bas $16.95
2006 Riesling D’Epfig • André Ostertag $18.95
2006 Riesling “Katzenthal” • Meyer-Fonné $26.00
2006 Riesling “Pfoeller” • Meyer-Fonné $36.00
2006 Riesling “Muenchberg” Grand Cru • André Ostertag $62.00
2006 Riesling “Wineck-Schlossberg” Grand Cru • Meyer-Fonné $34.00

Six-Bottle Sampler
Normally $193.90
Special Sampler Price $145
(a 25% discount)

2008 Rosé: Heads Up, Here They Come!

2008 Bandol Rosé • Domaine de Terrebrune

Here is Monsieur Delille’s take on his 2008 rosé: “Pale salmon-flesh color; delicate aroma-zest of red grapefruit and lemon; exotic, spicy character. Great plenitude of flavors including passion fruit, and a beautiful minerally freshness which comes from our limestone soil.”

$26.00 per bottle $280.80 per case

2008 Coteaux du Languedoc Rosé
Domaine du Poujol

Finally, a wine with a screwcap that doesn’t stir up the Kermudgeon in me. You pour, you sniff, screwcap forgotten.
This is a great SUMMER rosé. No cloying heaviness, lively as can be, dazzling with freshness on your palate, and I like that little stony edge.

$13.95 per bottle $150.66 per case

2008 Bandol Rosé • Domaine du Gros ‘Noré

Speaking of our pugilist from Gros ‘Noré, he told me to tell you that he let his enologist go and has completely changed his rosé vinification. I tasted the ‘08 in December and was KO’d by it. It seemed sorta … well, saucy like in a saucy dame. You know how a wine is supposed to express the character of the winemaker? Maybe ex-boxers attract saucy dames and make saucy rosés?

$27.00 per bottle $291.60 per case

I’ve just come down the hill from the lost hamlet of Blagny, up in the hills above Puligny-Montrachet in the Côte d’Or in Burgundy. You may have heard the name “Blagny” before, attached to a bottle of premier cru Meursault-Blagny, or perhaps even a bottle of the increasingly rare Blagny Rouge. The tiny, ancient hamlet straddles the appellations of Puligny and Meursault, high on the hill below the forest. Monks first established the little village and planted vines in the 14th century. This almost magical, lost-in-time corner of the world boasts a unique microclimate, with a slightly different average temperature, exposure to the elements and soil than the rest of Burgundy. In our humble opinion, our friend and vigneron, Laurent Martelet, creates the most haunting masterpieces that emerge from this terroir. Laurent bottles the wines we import under the Comtesse Bernard de Cherisey label named in honor of his wife Hélène’s mother, who inherited their vines and passed them down to Hélène. Hélène and Laurent work side by side in the vines as a team. Their 2004s and 2005s were received with great reverence by our salesman and clients over the past two years. We just received a shipment of their 2006s, and I thought it made sense to get the word out to as many people as soon as possible.

The Hameau de Blagny.

All of the de Cherisey vines are premier cru, all are at least 60 years old, and all encircle his ancient cellar in the Hameau de Blagny. His Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny is from vines on the south side of Blagny, level with the village, just above Puligny Truffières. It is a wine that combines the power and richness of Meursault with the ethereal finesse of Puligny. Laurent’s Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Chalumeaux is from vines just below Blagny, between the aforementioned Truffières and Meursault-Perrières. It is a perfectly situated parcel loaded with white limestone and gives a very fine, intensely focused très Puligny wine, screaming with minerality. It doesn’t have the renown of its neighbors, but it should. His Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Genelotte is from a vineyard just north of Blagny, on the Meursault side of course, high on the slope above the village. This is a powerful, classic and very long-lived Meursault. The Genelotte vineyard is also a monopole meaning Laurent is the sole proprietor. The grapes grown in these vineyards almost always benefit from additional hang-time at the tail end of the growing season due to the hamlet’s slightly cooler temperatures and their exposure to drying winds and late-afternoon sun allows the grapes to stay clean and healthy. The vines’ also benefit from their positioning mid-slope and the resulting deposits of rich, organic material. This deep soil allows the vines’ roots to burrow deep into the earth in search of moisture preserved by the limestone during the scorching summer heat. Laurent works the vines without the use of any chemical herbicides or insecticides. It’s for all of these reasons that Laurent produces perfectly balanced, statuesque and long-lived Burgundy in every vintage.

1er Cru La Genelotte in Spring.

The 2006s are such a brilliant case in point, because they really prove why generalizing a vintage can be so dangerous. I’m hearing from France that too many wine buyers in the United States are afraid of the 2006 vintage in white Burgundy due to a perceived lack of structure or acidity for aging (and I’ve also heard that some are making the even more critical mistake of lumping white and red Burgundy together when they formulate an opinion about a vintage – Chardonnay and Pinot have very different profiles and very often react quite differently to certain growing conditions). Laurent’s 2006s have everything you could ask for in a white Burgundy for the cellar: transparence of terroir, structure, acidity, minerality, concentration. They are exquisite examples of what makes white Burgundy perhaps the most compelling white wine in the world, especially if you are possess a good cellar. Do yourself a favor and do not miss these wines.

2006 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny $68.00/bottle, $734.40/case
2006 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Chalumeaux $68.00/bottle, $734.40/case
2006 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Genelotte $68.00/bottle, $734.40/case

If you’d like to hear more about it from the horse’s mouth so to speak, Laurent has philosophized a bit about what the Blagny terroir means to him and you can read all about it here. The original French can be found here. For those of you interested in more technical information about the wines you can find a full breakdown here.

In our June newsletter, available online June 2nd, we will have more on our philosophy about vintage variation in Burgundy and a spectacular and diverse pre-arrival offering from four of our top red Burgundy domaines.

Hallelujah harvest is over!

Our white Burgundy sale is currently on in full force. 20% off by the bottle, 30% off by the case. For a list of the wines, click here. Here are the notes from our second round of tasting…

2006 Puligny-Montrachet “La Truffière” 1er Cru • Bruno Colin
Normally $115.00, 20% off per bottle $92.00
Tasting with Bruno Colin is a treat. You taste through so many of the great white wines of Burgundy and you see the differences from vineyard to vineyard. Of course there are many cellars in the region that offer this chance but with Colin you get to taste wines that are perfectly vinified, are not manipulated with too much new oak, and retain the charm and character of each vineyard.

Towards the end of tasting through his wines you get to the Puligny-Montrachet “La Truffière,” a highly sought after 1er Cru that has a lot in common with the Grand Cru “Le Montrachet.” They both share a profound vibrancy and power, an incredible ability to age and a grandness that is only matched by other Grand Cru vineyards. “La Truffière” also has something “Le Montrachet” does not, the added bonus of a hint of black truffle. It is said that long ago there where oak trees among the vines and that truffles grew under the oaks. These mythical truffles lend their wonderful character to the wine and of course you pay a lot less for the Puligny than Le Montrachet…..especially at 30% off. - Michael Butler

2006 Bourgogne Blanc “Les Clous” • A. et P. de Villaine
Normally $32.00, 20% off per bottle $25.60
Aubert de Villaine is well known in Burgundy and throughout the world as co-director of the famed Domaine de la Romanée Conti. He is a man of humility and vision, and when making wine he has one focus: to make excellent wines that are 100% indicative of their terroir. Located in the Côte Chalonnaise, the “Les Clous” comes from several south facing parcels that protect it from the wind and position it ideally for summer ripening. De Villaine describes this wine as a true “vin de garde” – a wine that you should watch develop over a number of years. I agree, but this wine is also drinking beautifully right now. A fresh roundness of fruit on the palate is buoyed by a light streak of acidity and fresh minerality. Buy a case and drink it over the next four or five years and you will not be disappointed. Also, A. et P. de Villaine have an excellent website with detailed information on each of their wines. – Clark Z. Terry

2004 Meursault “Les Tillets” • François Jobard
Normally $72.00, 20% off per bottle $57.60
Again, I find myself drawn to Francois Jobard for our blog, this time it is a 2004 Meursault “Les Tillets.” Jobard’s “Les Tillets” comes from forty year old vines which border his famous 1er cru “Poruzots.” A beautiful golden robe is followed by notes of lemony crème brûlée and a delicious nuttiness, finishing with bright, fresh lime zest, minerals and chalk. A classic Jobard, through and through, drink it now if you like but it has the underlying power to age gracefully. – Mark Congero

2005 Chassagne-Montrachet “Clos St. Jean” 1er Cru • Philippe Colin
Normally $85.00, 20% off per bottle $68.00
Back in 2005 I had the pleasure of tasting with the three winemaking members of the Colin family that we import: Michel, and his sons Bruno, and Philippe. The sons worked under their father before establishing their own domaines just a few years ago. I go back and forth over which Colin brother’s wine I like better, but just recently I had a bottle of Philippe’s that was quite memorable. Philippe’s 2005 Chassagne-Montrachet “Clos St. Jean” is a gorgeous white Burgundy that is drinking quite well right now. 2005 as a vintage provides the best of both worlds: forward fruit for early drinkability, yet good crisp refreshing acidity. Drink now through the next five or so years.  - Steve Waters

The May newsletter is now available! Download the PDF by clicking here.

In this month’s newsletter…

PRE-ARRIVAL OFFER
2007 GIGONDAS • DOMAINE LES PALLIÈRES

So, two Pallières this year. One wears the designation “Les Racines,” or The Roots. It comes from what were the original vines planted around the ancient winery. I go for the name because, you know me, roots music, roots wine.

The other is “Terrasse du Diable,” Terrace of the Devil, the historic name of a very special parcel at Pallières. Don’t think of either as a cuvée spéciale. This is more like Tempier’s “Migoua” and “Tourtine.” Equal, even similar, but different.

“Les Racines” concentrates on the pretty, flirtatious, seductive, gushing-with-cornucopian-fruit character unique to Pallières. “Terrasse du Diable” has the darker soul, more structure—a more intellectual side, if you will, of the Pallières experience. We found that our two favorite aspects of the Pallières goût de terroir are heightened more when separated.

2007 LES RACINES
$336 per case
(also available in tenths)

2007 TERRASSE DU DIABLE
$336 per case
(also available in magnums, jeroboams, and methuselahs)

WHITE BURGUNDY DISCOUNT
20% by the bottle, 30% by the case

Ever since our economy was Bushwhacked, there has been a slowdown and I want to clear out some remaining inventory and make room for the 2007s, which are beginning to arrive. We are known for our outstanding portfolio of white Burgundy domaines, and it seems that stocking up on these great wines at a drastic discount is a smart move. A list of sale wines is available in the newsletter. Check out this post for notes on our first round of tasting some of these wines and check back for future postings as we taste through more white Burgundy.