by Kermit Lynch
Once in a while on a buying trip, I’ll run into a wine that I can’t forget. Then I have to wait until it arrives so I can consummate the affair at table. Last summer I went to Corsica with my old pal François Sack from Clos Sainte Magdeleine, and we fell in love with two Vermentinos from Patrimonio. Now in stock, they live up to my expectations.
2012 PATRIMONIO BLANC • YVES LECCIA
Asked what’s so good about Patrimonio, here’s the one to uncork. Here you find its best qualities shining brightly—the lovely saline fruit, the stony palate, the length of a great wine, the mouthwatering freshness throughout. It will dazzle alongside charcuterie or seafood. We usually have to pay a lot more to find the kind of magic this wine delivers.
$38.00 per bottle $410.40 per case
2012 PATRIMONIO BLANC “CARCO”
Leccia’s Patrimonio can make me think of Raveneau’s Montée de Tonnerre. If you can imagine that, then Arena’s 2012 could be described as more like Coche-Dury’s Meursault.
White Burgundies are oaky, however. Chardonnay likes oak. Vermentino doesn’t, according to Leccia and Arena, so you have to factor that into a comparison.
Different grapes, different winemakers, oak vs. no oak—whatever likeness is due to similar chalky soils.
The Arena, like the white Burgs, finished its malo, so it seems thicker, weightier. With aeration it turns more limestony, and an apricot pit fruit flavor emerges.
$45.00 per bottle $486.00 per case
2010 CORSE CALVI ROUGE “E PROVE”
Deep, earthy, funky and fine all at once, at this moment in time, this Corsican red is also one of our greatest values.
$22.00 per bottle $237.60 per case