Inspiring Thirst An inside look at wines of Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant.

The February newsletter is now available. Download the PDF here.

Highlights from this month’s newsletter…

ODDS AND ENDS SALE
STARTS FEBRUARY 1ST!

Yes, sometimes you wine connoisseurs don’t drink as fast as you should, and we find ourselves looking at the new vintage coming in, and hmm, we’d better make some space—either that or move to a larger store, which I am in no mood to do.

Here’s the important thing:

GREAT WINES, GREAT PRICES

DISCOUNTS FROM 25% TO 50%

Call 510-524-1524 to speak to a salesperson.
Visit blog.kermitlynch.com/odds-and-ends-sale
OR DROP BY AND SEE FOR YOURSELF

PRE-ARRIVAL OFFER

DOMAINE ANTOINE JOBARD

Vintage 2007 was made for Jobard — the wines are fresh, lively, balanced, Meursault stones and Meursault fruit galore, and you will enjoy them from the moment they arrive until you uncork your last bottle way off into the future. They are showy and built to last.

2007 Bourgogne Blanc $279.00/cs
2007 Meursault “En La Barre” 546.00/cs
2007 Meursault “En La Barre” tenths 594.00/cs
2007 Meursault “Les Tillets” 546.00/cs
2007 Meursault-Blagny 795.00/cs
2007 Meursault-Poruzots 816.00/cs
2007 Meursault-Genevrières 816.00/cs
2007 Meursault-Charmes 816.00/cs
2007 Puligny-Montrachet “Le Trézin” 546.00/cs
2007 Puligny-Montrachet “Le Trézin” tenths 594.00/cs

Half-payment due with order; balance due upon arrival.

PRE-ARRIVAL OFFER

DOMAINE CHARLES JOGUET

The Loire Valley produced a classic red vintage in 2007—racy, delicious wines with good acidity and structure for aging. I hope you’ll find a little room in your cellar for these stunning Chinons.

2007 CHINON “LES VARENNES DU GRAND CLOS”

This is the most supple and precocious of the three, although it has ample depth and structure and probably needs a few more years in bottle to fully come together.

$348.00 per case

2007 CHINON “CLOS DU CHÊNE VERT”

Here is a gorgeous Chêne Vert to follow over many years. It strikes a perfect balance between concentration and finesse. What a dramatic, complicated personality!

$498.00 per case

2007 CHINON “CLOS DE LA DIOTERIE”

I tasted, or experienced, this wine, and you should, too. But then it is to be forgotten for at least five or six years, then enjoyed for many more. Dense, thickly woven Cabernet Franc from gravelly white limestone, it is impressively tannic, intense, and beautifully flavored.

$516.00 per case

Half-payment due with order; balance due upon arrival.

During the summer we received a surprise visit from one of our French winemakers, Agnès Henry from Domaine de la Tour du Bon in Bandol. Agnès came in right as the shop opened and introduced herself. I chatted with her a while and showed her where her wines are located in the shop. This was in July, when Kermit had publicized her rosé in the monthly newsletter. My colleague Michael was with a customer at the time and directed him to Agnès’ rosé. She then explained to the customer that she knows our three other Bandol producers quite well and recommended that he try something from each of them. She said, “Try them all, not to find the best one, but to understand the differences in terroir of each wine.” She then expounded about the differences between each of the various Bandol reds we carry. Terrebrune she described as disciplined, Gros ‘Noré has power, and Tempier, well, it’s simply excellent. She described her own wine as having power like Gros ‘Noré but with an elegant, feminine touch. After divulging that Reynald Delille of Domaine de Terrebrune is a Tae Kwon Do master and raises champion show dogs, she left to continue her family vacation in California.

Agnès so succinctly and humbly summed up one of our core values here at KLWM. Why do we carry four producers from Bandol, three from Chinon, three from Sancerre, and four from Morgon? Each producer makes wine from a place that might be similar to that of their neighbors, but their vineyards, specific location, traditions, and history have influenced their wines, creating a unique style.

Check it out for yourself. Here’s a list of appellations that we carry which have at least two representative bottles in stock. Try for yourself the comparison Agnès recommends.

We sincerely hope to see Agnès here again soon and hope you’ve tried one of her Bandol reds, whites, or rosés.

Bandol
2006 Bandol Rouge • Domaine de la Tour du Bon         $32.00
2007 Bandol Rouge • Domaine Tempier            40.00
2006 Bandol Rouge • Domaine du Gros ‘Noré        36.00
2005 Bandol Rouge • Domaine de Terrebrune        30.00
2008 Bandol Blanc • Domaine de la Tour du Bon        29.00
2007 Bandol Blanc • Domaine du Gros ‘Noré        32.00

Chinon
2006 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos” • Charles Joguet        28.00
2006 Chinon “St. Louans” • Catherine et Pierre Breton    32.00
2006 Chinon “La Croix Boissée” • Bernard Baudry        29.00

Bourgueil
2007 Bourgueil “Cuvée Beauvais” • Chanteleuserie        $16.95
2007 Bourgueil “Clos Sénéchal” • Catherine Pierre Breton        32.00

Sancerre
2007 Sancerre VV • Grandes Perrières    $27.00
2008 Sancerre • Daniel Chotard        24.00
2008 Sancerre • Hippolyte Reverdy        24.00

Vouvray
2008 Vouvray Sec • Catherine et Didier Champalou       $18.95
2008 Vouvray Sec • Catherine et Pierre Breton            17.95
NV Vouvray Pétillant Brut • Catherine et Didier Champalou    19.95
NV Vouvray Pétillant Brut • Catherine et Pierre Breton        19.95

Chablis
2007 Chablis • Olivier Savary        $24.00
2007 Chablis • Roland Lavantureux        22.00

Côte de Brouilly
2007 Côte de Brouilly • Château Thivin    $22.00
2008 Côte de Brouilly • Nicole Chanrion    19.95

Morgon
2008 Morgon “Corcelette” • Jean Foillard    $34.00
2008 Morgon “Côte du Py” • Jean Foillard     34.00
2008 Morgon VV • Jean-Paul Thenevet    29.00
2007 Morgon VV • Guy Breton        28.00
2007 Morgon “Cuvée Marcel Lapierre” • Marcel Lapierre    42.00

We voted at the end of the tasting. Kermit asked, “which red did you like best, the ‘Pourpre’ or the ‘Causse du Bousquet?’” Out of the eight voters  it was a split decision (Kermit was the ninth attendee but didn’t vote). Each red received four votes. What does that mean? It was close, I could have voted for the other guy but I stuck with my instincts. My favorite red of the night was the “Pourpre,” made by the son of Domaine Gramenon vigneronne Michèle Aubrey-Laurent, Maxime Laurent.

“Pourpre” is a funny word to say. I’d recommend that you practice saying it out loud a few times. Don’t worry about using your best French pronunciation; say whatever you feel most closely resembles “Pourpre.” In general I’d use that advice when pronouncing French wine names.  Just say what comes out naturally and being the intuitive creatures humans are, whomever you’re speaking to will probably understand it. Back in the day, Robert Mondavi decided that “Sauvignon” was too difficult for Americans to say, so he started bottling his Sauvignon Blanc as “Fumé Blanc.” Decades later, we’ve figured out that Americans do possess the intellect to say “Sauvignon” and now the wine drinking public is just confused when they learn that Fumé Blanc is actually Sauvignon Blanc.

Maxime Laurent’s 2008 “Pourpre” ($32) and the Mas Champart 2007 Saint Chinian “Causse de Bousquet” ($22) are two very different wines. The “Pourpre” is 100% Grenache from the southern Rhône but vinified in the style of the wines of Beaujolais. There is a bright spice, a faint brush of tannin, and simply beautiful fruit. My colleague, Sam Imel, poignantly described it by saying: “It (the “Pourpre”) is just so fresh, like fresh cut fruit in your mouth.”

Mas Champart’s “Causse de Bousquet” is a different animal. This wine has muscle and structure. It’s powerful, but not over the top. The black olive, black cherry, and réglisse notes are firmly held together by a strong backbone of tannin. Drink this now, but only with a hearty meal, or let it soften for a number of years. This is one of our many wines that don’t break the bank, but can be held for 5+ years and will give you immense pleasure down the line.

The January newsletter is now available! Download the PDF here.

Highlights from this month’s newlsetter…

New From Corsica

Corsica’s north is named Cap Corse. Not only is it northern, it is hilly. Northern, hilly location—like Chablis? Well, these two new wines are from Cap Corse, they taste almost nothing like Chablis, and yet when I introduced them to the staff the other night, the consensus was that there is something sort of Chablis-like about the white. You could say that this Cap Corse Vermentino is to the Patrimonio whites as Chablis is to the Côte de Beaune—leaner, more discreet, crisper, and seemingly drier.

2008 Rosé de l’Île de Beauté • Domaine Gioielli $28.00/btl
2008 Coteux du Cap Corse Blanc • Domaine Gioielli $28.00/btl

Corsican Sampler

We released a Corsican Sampler last year that turned a bunch of you on to the wild island’s wines, so here’s a new version, another chance to sample the island’s best—at a discount.

2008 E Prove Blanc • Domaine Maestracci  $16.95
2007 Patrimonio Blanc • Domaine Leccia 28.00
2008 Vin de Pays Blanc “Bianco Gentile” • Domaine Arena  37.00
2006 E Prove Rouge • Domaine Maestracci  19.95
2006 Patrimonio Rouge • Domaine Leccia  24.00
2006 Patrimonio “Morta Maio” Rouge • Domaine Arena  35.00

6 bottles normally $160.90
Special Sampler Price
$121
(a 25% discount)

Pre-Arrival Maume

The wines of Domaine Maume define the Gevrey-Chambertin style: traditional, earthy, powerful, and intense. If you want Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin (and what sensitive palate wouldn’t?), start right here. They seem to come from a deeper well of the past than others.

2007 Gevrey-Chambertin $576.00/cs
2007 Gevrey-Chambertin “En Pallud” 657.00/cs
2007 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaux Saint-Jacques” 1er Cru 1194.00/cs
2007 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 1572.00/cs
2007 Pommard “Les Argillières”1er Cru 954.00/cs

In recent memory we have imported just one producer from Vouvray, the wines of Didier and Catherine Champalou. Earlier this year, we began importing a second Vouvray from another Loire Valley husband and wife winemaking team, Pierre and Catherine Breton. The 2008 Vouvray Secs from these two producers recently arrived and I was excited to taste them and delve further into what 2008 Loire whites have to offer.

We started with the Breton’s 2008 Vouvray Sec “La Dilettante” ($17.95). The 2008 is our second vintage importing the Breton’s foray into white wine production (they also make a NV Vouvray Pétillant ($19.95). The Breton’s built their reputation on making pure Cabernet Francs from Bourgueil and Chinon using Biodynamic viticulture and vinification. There was no need for a trial period with their white wines, they were stunning from the beginning. The 2008 maintained the quality of the 2007 vintage perfectly while offering its own unique characteristics. There is an alluring quality to the 2008. I know I like a wine when after first tasting, I can’t wait to see how it strikes me the next time I open a bottle. Lime citrus and lychee fruit lend a thirst-quenching quality now, but I sense more will develop down the line. What will the wine offer in a month or a year from now?

The Vouvray Sec from the Champalous is a rock solid Kermit Lynch stand-by. We’ve been importing their Sec, Demi-Sec, Pétillant, and Moelleux since the 1980s. Our man in France, Dixon Brooke, says the Vouvray Sec is a staff favorite. That is a mild understatement being that it has been a favorite here for two decades. The 2008 Vouvray Sec ($18.95) is a vivid and delicate rendition of Vouvray. The nose is perfumed, exuding a feminine and floral freshness. The Champalous often refer to this dry wine as being “sec tendre” or a “tender dryness,” meaning they leave just a wisp of sweetness. This near illusion of sugar is engaging, it draws me in, plying me to take another sip to figure out what’s going on.

To ensure that you have enough wine for the holidays, we have again expanded our Christmas hours and will be open this coming Sunday and Monday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Kermit will make a point of being in the store from 4 to 6 p.m. on these two days to chat, sign his books and new CD, and answer any questions you might have for him.

His book Inspiring Thirst will soon be out in paperback. The hardcover with Gail Skoff’s beautifully rendered black and white photos will no longer be in print. Kermit will sign and sell the hardcover (originally $40) at half price. Not a bad gift, by the way.

For those two days, and two days only, we’ve put together a limited run of 6-bottle “Inspiring Thirst” Samplers. These are all wines that Kermit blended for import into the U.S. What could be more appropriate to inspire your palates than wines selected, blended, and sold to you by Kermit Lynch??

We only have 48 samplers available, so come in or call 510.524.1524 to reserve yours.

While reflecting on the new producers we’ve added to our portfolio over the past couple years, a common theme emerged. For the most part, we haven’t added producers from well-known winegrowing areas, but instead we found gems tucked away in obscure corners of France and Italy. A few of these new producers are Pascal Janvier from Jasnières in the Loire, Punta Crena from the Ligurian coast, and our latest acquisition, Domaine de Gioielli from the Cap Corse.

Michel Angeli, the vigneron and owner of Domaine de Gioielli (joy-ee-yel-ee), is very old school. He’s never exported his wines, not even to mainland France. This means you can find his wines in Corsica and Berkeley…that’s it. We imported two of his 2008s, a white made from Vermentinu and a rosé made from Aleatico, Niellucciu, and about 10% Vermentinu (the Corsican spelling of Vermentino, or Rolle as it is known in France).

These wines are loaded with maquis – the herbal aroma of the Corsican scrubland. The white has a stunning spicy minerality and the rosé has a refreshing acidity balanced by a streak of creaminess that is quite reminiscent of the rosés from Bandol. Each wine retails at $28 per bottle. You’ll be hearing more about these wines in the near future, but I’d recommend checking them out soon so you don’t miss out.

Special Pairing Recommendation:
If you live in Berkeley, pick up a bottle of Gioielli, then pair it with a classic Brooklyn-style pie from Gioia Pizzeria up the street.

The retail staff, hard at work.

Today we have a guest blogger, my colleague and salesperson here at KLWM, Mark Congero. I profiled Mark and one of his recipes in August. Now he offers up some guidance on selecting winter produce.

In recent years it seems that every variety of fruit and vegetable has become available year round. This makes it easy to forget that most all fruits and vegetables actually have a particular growing season. So, if you are relaxing in your kitchen nibbling a basket of strawberries during December and its 40 degrees outside, it’s a good bet the fruit came from really far away. There are many reasons to eat seasonally and locally, but for me the most important reason can be summed up in a word: Taste! I get excited knowing that I can only eat fresh peaches at the height of flavor and juiciness for about 3 months out of the year. I look forward to seeing the first stone fruits arrive at the beginning of summer just as seeing the first asparagus and English peas are a sure sign that spring has arrived. With that in mind, here is a small list of some things to look for at the farmer’s markets or grocery store during the cold winter months.

Cauliflower, broccoli, kale, and Brussels sprouts are a sure sign of cooler weather.  Take a whole head of cauliflower, slice it up, and roast it in a hot a pan with olive oil until it is browned and soft. Top with a pounded anchovy and caper oil. As for Brussels sprouts, I like to slice them thin and sauté them in butter and chicken stock, then finish with toasted chestnuts or hazelnuts.

Turnips, parsnips, rutabagas, and celery root are perfect for winter cooking. They are great for stews, braises, and gratins, or just simply roasted. Parsnips make a great purée or slice them thin and fry for a sweet treat. If you can find beautiful little baby turnips, simply blanche them and toss with good olive oil and salt. Delicious!

Citrus fruits are at their height in cold weather: Blood oranges, grapefruit, tangerines, pomelos, Meyer lemons, and naval oranges. They are wonderful in salads or salsas. Try an avocado and grapefruit salad with a citrus vinaigrette or a shaved fennel, blood orange and prosciutto salad.  Citrus fruits make great sorbets and ice creams as well.

Persimmons, pomegranates, and dates are also excellent winter fruits. After a big rich dinner, serve a delicious bowl of tangerines and dates. Fuyu persimmons are great for snacking and Hachiya’s make a perfect persimmon pudding.

Fuyu persimmons, pomegranates, foraged chanterelles, and winter chicories.

One of the many perks of working at KLWM is the incredible opportunity to be able to taste old wines from Kermit’s cellar. At staff tastings, more often than not, Kermit shows up with a few bottles from his personal collection that either correlates with a recent arrival or they are wines that Kermit is curious to see how they are developing. He brought in a couple beauties from Burgundy for our last staff tasting. I hope some of you managed to keep some of these wines for this long. Your patience will have been rewarded.

1998 Rully “Les Saint Jacques” • A. & P. de Villaine

Aubert de Villaine regularly touts the longevity of the whites and reds from his personal domaine (he is also co-director of Domaine de la Romanée Conti). He has the experience, background, and touch to make well structured wines with classic Burgundian character that can and should age. On his website, Aubert has tasting notes and advice on when to drink older vintages of his wines.

I’d never had a chance to taste older vintages of A. & P. de Villaine whites but I’ve found them to be quite enjoyable young. It was clear that the recommendation of cellaring was well warranted. The palate was deep and rich, with a honeycomb characteristic, and a buttery mineral spice. This wine has hit peak drinking time. If you have a few bottles in your cellar, drink them. I wouldn’t recommend holding this wine much longer. In another 3 years you might be disappointed.

1988 Nuits-Saint-Georges “Les Cailles” 1er Cru • Robert Chevillon

Burgundy fanatics often talk about their “Burgundy moment”: The bottle that flipped a switch in their brain and set them on a destructive path to buy all the Burgundy they can in search of more wine that will replicate that vinous epiphany. My bottle was an ’88 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru from Bertheau (I’ve actually had that wine twice!). Had I not already had my “moment” it would have occurred while tasting Chevillon’s ’88 Cailles; pure elegance with loads of brilliant, bright fruit reminiscent of fresh strawberry/blackberry jam, and streaks of subtle tobacco. There was no reason to spit this wine. I could only sip and savor the small glass I had (there were 10 of us at the tasting). There is a reason why people have unhealthy obsessions with Burgundy, and this wine is one of them.

The December newsletter is now available! Download the PDF here.

Highlights from this month’s newsletter…

Special Holiday Hours With Kermit Lynch
Open Sunday, December 20 & Monday, December 21
11 a.m.–6 p.m.

To ensure that you have enough wine for the holidays, we’ll be open extra hours in late December. As an added attraction, Kermit will make a point of being in the store from 4 to 6 p.m. on Sunday the 20th and Monday the 21st to chat, sign his books and new CD, and talk wine with you.

During those two days, and two days only, we will have a special “Inspiring Thirst Sampler” that will include six classic Kermit Lynch wines and a copy of his book Inspiring Thirst. If you come in Sunday or Monday, Kermit will sign it and sell it at only $19.95.

Details of the Inspiring Thirst Sampler will be announced here on our blog and through our email list. Sign up here if you’re not on the list. See you then!

Four Samplers!

12 bottle Holiday Sampler

Once again, we are doing our best to make holiday gift giving easy on you. Choose from our various gift Samplers, or give a gift certificate, or why not a signed book from Kermit? Do you have friends on your list who deserve to know more about us?

We start you off with a Sampler chock full of bargain wines. At the Sampler discount you will be paying only $12.00 a bottle for fine French and Italian imports.

SPECIAL SAMPLER PRICE $144

***

6 bottle Italian Gift Box

Over the past couple months, our staff and customers alike have been thrilled about the tremendous values to be found in our Italian section. Our Italian selections boast a quality and typicity that is rare at such low prices. In this Sampler, we have reds, whites, and a sparkling wine coming from the regions of Piedmont, Tuscany, Veneto, and Friuli. Discover Kermit Lynch Italian wines for yourself or introduce a friend to our imports. At our Sampler price the average price per bottle is $12.00.

SPECIAL SAMPLER PRICE $72

***

6 bottle Domaine Joguet Sampler

Here is your chance to sample at a reduced Sampler price Joguet’s top three vineyards from two great vintages. Either taste them to see if you want more, or put them in your cellar for future gratification.

SPECIAL SAMPLER PRICE $190

***

6 bottle Collector’s Sampler

All too often we equate a good value with something that is inexpensive. Value means bang for your buck regardless of how many bucks you spend. With that in mind, here is a Sampler that is bound to please even the most discerning palate. Six bottles of great wine at a great price; add these wines to your own cellar or get friends started on collecting for themselves. This Sampler will be a welcome addition to any wine buff’s collection.

SPECIAL SAMPLER PRICE $228

Download the newsletter to read details on the samplers.

2007 Northern Rhône PA

At KLWM we ardently love the pure Syrahs of the northern Rhône. We think it is the greatest, most diverse collection of terroirs for Syrah in the world, and despite the miniscule acreage, the prices remain more than correct. Everyone knows by now that 2007 was a fabulous vintage in the Rhône Valley and certainly not one to be missed from these top addresses.

Domaine Clape
2007 Cornas $972.00 per case
2007 Cornas “Renaissance” $636.00 per case

Thierry Allemand
2007 Cornas “Chaillot” $876.00 per case
2007 Cornas “Reynard” $1056.00 per case

Patrick Jasmin
2007 Côte Rôtie $636.00 per case